Contents
1. Introduction (Design opportunity,
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3. Evaluate (interpret info)
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1. Introduction
Design opportunity
A design opportunity arose in August 2013 with a friend who needed a gardener and also wanted to create a bird-friendly garden (she's very keen on bird watching). To keep it low budget, and easy to maintain, as her house not local for me and her health is a limiting factor for her. We agreed 2 hours per month actual paid gardening, which should be enough to keep garden cared for.
We also agreed that I could document process for my portfolio though I would be paid only for the implementation part of design.
(The financial arrangements changed in 2015 when J had more outgoings due to change in circumstances and I began the design on Gift Economy.)
We also agreed that I could document process for my portfolio though I would be paid only for the implementation part of design.
(The financial arrangements changed in 2015 when J had more outgoings due to change in circumstances and I began the design on Gift Economy.)
Framework
Which design framework am I using?
At the time I started this design, I was reading Ken Wilber who cricitises the scientific ('it' domain) way of thinking for lacking Interpretation to follow Observation. I wondered if Permaculture design frameworks have an interpretation stage. Yes they do, though it is usually called Analysis, Assess or Evaluation (the evaluation that follows Resources in OBREDIMET). I started this design with a a framework that had an interpretation stage then I decided it was just semantics and reverted to Evaluation (stage 3).
I'm using something along the lines of SADIM and OBREDIMET though am noticing the implementation phase is the most protracted as the design will be implemented incrementally over Autumn, Winter and and on into 2014 and will be tweaked as I go along. (Surveying has taken place before design but will also continue to take place as the design is implemented and inform the tweaks.)
See design spiral diagram below for the process I planned to go through which became the framework
1. Introduction (design opportunity above)- 2. gather info - 3. evaluation - 4. ideas - 5. integration of previous into a design - 6. implementation overview - 8. Final evaluation and reflection
At the time I started this design, I was reading Ken Wilber who cricitises the scientific ('it' domain) way of thinking for lacking Interpretation to follow Observation. I wondered if Permaculture design frameworks have an interpretation stage. Yes they do, though it is usually called Analysis, Assess or Evaluation (the evaluation that follows Resources in OBREDIMET). I started this design with a a framework that had an interpretation stage then I decided it was just semantics and reverted to Evaluation (stage 3).
I'm using something along the lines of SADIM and OBREDIMET though am noticing the implementation phase is the most protracted as the design will be implemented incrementally over Autumn, Winter and and on into 2014 and will be tweaked as I go along. (Surveying has taken place before design but will also continue to take place as the design is implemented and inform the tweaks.)
See design spiral diagram below for the process I planned to go through which became the framework
1. Introduction (design opportunity above)- 2. gather info - 3. evaluation - 4. ideas - 5. integration of previous into a design - 6. implementation overview - 8. Final evaluation and reflection
2. Gather info
Client interview
As part of the surveying stage of design, I carried out a client interview.
Carried out 6th August 2013 based on Aranya’s book ‘Permaculture Design A step by Step Guide’, pp 80 – 84 (I used this book as a guide because I hadn’t really carried out a detailed one before and I wanted to make sure the client interview was as thorough as possible)
Current arrangements
· Access via front door, side alley and gate into a shared back garden
· Whole garden is 10 m wide x 30 m long from sticking out bit of house
· J has a quarter of whole garden, 10 x 7 m2 (there are 3 other tenants who have a quarter each too)
· Her section is at the back of whole garden and is fairly shaded by trees - Sycamore and Ivy covered tree at the side
· She visits site frequently in summer and a sits on neighbour’s bench
· Otherwise she observes birds from indoors with binoculars on daily basis
· There is a shed for tools and mower, not J’s but ok to use
· Access to neighbour’s hose (but which is 3 m too short to reach the very end) and is fiddly to extend as neighbour has spray attachment on it
· There is already bird feeder on a post which is roughly on the boundary of her area.
· She is responsible for her own garden upkeep
· Not known if neighbour’s use slug pellets or weed killer as yet, could affect birds in her patch
· 2m high wooden fence on 3 sides
· Stony path on south side 1m wide, nothing grows there, just weeds such as Green Alkanet, grass, dandelion. J doesn't want this changed at
the moment.
· Bare patch 1+ m wide across the back of the garden
· As far as J is aware there are no energy leaks (specifically water) and the terrain is flat
· Wheelbarrow and compost heap of grass cuttings out of view under Holly in North West corner
Carried out 6th August 2013 based on Aranya’s book ‘Permaculture Design A step by Step Guide’, pp 80 – 84 (I used this book as a guide because I hadn’t really carried out a detailed one before and I wanted to make sure the client interview was as thorough as possible)
Current arrangements
· Access via front door, side alley and gate into a shared back garden
· Whole garden is 10 m wide x 30 m long from sticking out bit of house
· J has a quarter of whole garden, 10 x 7 m2 (there are 3 other tenants who have a quarter each too)
· Her section is at the back of whole garden and is fairly shaded by trees - Sycamore and Ivy covered tree at the side
· She visits site frequently in summer and a sits on neighbour’s bench
· Otherwise she observes birds from indoors with binoculars on daily basis
· There is a shed for tools and mower, not J’s but ok to use
· Access to neighbour’s hose (but which is 3 m too short to reach the very end) and is fiddly to extend as neighbour has spray attachment on it
· There is already bird feeder on a post which is roughly on the boundary of her area.
· She is responsible for her own garden upkeep
· Not known if neighbour’s use slug pellets or weed killer as yet, could affect birds in her patch
· 2m high wooden fence on 3 sides
· Stony path on south side 1m wide, nothing grows there, just weeds such as Green Alkanet, grass, dandelion. J doesn't want this changed at
the moment.
· Bare patch 1+ m wide across the back of the garden
· As far as J is aware there are no energy leaks (specifically water) and the terrain is flat
· Wheelbarrow and compost heap of grass cuttings out of view under Holly in North West corner
Birds currently in seen in the garden
Sparrows
Collared doves
Wood pigeons
Blue Tits
Great Tits
Sparrowhawks (rarely)
Client Interview part 2 :J’s needs and wants
· Ease of watering and low maintenance as J has health considerations, so nothing heavy or fiddly
· Keep the dead tree as a source of insects
· Also keep the brambles and Holly to provide cover for birds
· The lawn is nice to sit on but has bare patches, maybe something could be done about them
· To allow Pyracantha to grow back as provides berries for birds
· Plants that birds will enjoy and depend on, such as teasel, thistle, crab apple too
· Pleasure from birdwatching and leisure when in the garden
· to attract as many birds as possible, especially parakeets ( who she knows love crab apples)
· hopefully attract hedgehogs too
RE: sparrowhawks and parakeets
We discussed what to do about Sparrowhawks and J advises that they come and hunt about every 6 months, but don’t take up residence and that wherever there are birds, there are Sparrowhawks.
Parakeets are not liked by some for competing with native birds for food and nesting sites, however there is also opinion that smaller birds are adapting to them. (BBc nature news 27th May 2011)
Budget
Reasonable, less than £100 on plants /feeders/soil in total (not including labour)
· Ease of watering and low maintenance as J has health considerations, so nothing heavy or fiddly
· Keep the dead tree as a source of insects
· Also keep the brambles and Holly to provide cover for birds
· The lawn is nice to sit on but has bare patches, maybe something could be done about them
· To allow Pyracantha to grow back as provides berries for birds
· Plants that birds will enjoy and depend on, such as teasel, thistle, crab apple too
· Pleasure from birdwatching and leisure when in the garden
· to attract as many birds as possible, especially parakeets ( who she knows love crab apples)
· hopefully attract hedgehogs too
RE: sparrowhawks and parakeets
We discussed what to do about Sparrowhawks and J advises that they come and hunt about every 6 months, but don’t take up residence and that wherever there are birds, there are Sparrowhawks.
Parakeets are not liked by some for competing with native birds for food and nesting sites, however there is also opinion that smaller birds are adapting to them. (BBc nature news 27th May 2011)
Budget
Reasonable, less than £100 on plants /feeders/soil in total (not including labour)
Summary of Aims of this design
· To encourage as many birds as possible into the garden, especially parakeets, for J’s pleasure and observation
· To provide a healthy, safe habitat for birds and their food web
· To be low budget
· To be low maintenance, ie, a couple of hours a month
- Not need much watering once plants established as J has health problems that limit physical activity
Abundant hedge food for birds and pollen and nectar plants for butterflies and bees, a zone 5 at the end of the garden
After the client interview, we went out to look at the site. I took some photos from all angles and mapped as much of the site as I could. (see Base Map below)
Initial plant inventory August 2013
Holly tree in North west corner Fallen tree log
Brambles Ivy
Small Pyracantha Young Robinia
Dog roses Viburnum Davidii
Holly tree in North west corner Fallen tree log
Brambles Ivy
Small Pyracantha Young Robinia
Dog roses Viburnum Davidii
Boundaries
Her part of garden at the back, is bounded on 3 sides by a 2 m high fence. Work has been recently done in a neighbouring property and the new fence installed. This led to loss of plants immediately in front of new fence, only a small Pyracantha remains.
Base map
overview of whole garden
Enlarged section of Base map
showing area that J is responsible for
Resources
Possible Plant sources
My allotment (Teasel seed heads, nigella, Japanese wineberry and herbs)
St Saviour’s Edible Garden (divisions of herbs, Achillea, Cherry plum seedlings, Nigella seeds)
Shannon’s garden centre (my local one)
Other client's garden surpluses
Sangha? (local Buddhist centre community) If we let people know what we are looking for, they may have surpluses too
Local resources
Purley way garden centre, also one in/near Woodmansterne
Cherry Orchardgarde n centre near Sydenham Road, Croydon
My allotment (Teasel seed heads, nigella, Japanese wineberry and herbs)
St Saviour’s Edible Garden (divisions of herbs, Achillea, Cherry plum seedlings, Nigella seeds)
Shannon’s garden centre (my local one)
Other client's garden surpluses
Sangha? (local Buddhist centre community) If we let people know what we are looking for, they may have surpluses too
Local resources
Purley way garden centre, also one in/near Woodmansterne
Cherry Orchardgarde n centre near Sydenham Road, Croydon
Summary of Birds' Needs (the unwitting clients?) (see table below for more detail)
- trees and bushes for nesting
- seeds and insects to eat
- water
- protection/shelter
Some analysis of info gathered
Table of Garden Birds and their needs in more detail (who, where and what)
Bird food web
I drew up this diagram to reinforce the info I had gathered on table above and to see how the birds and their food chain fitted together.
- Possible Predators
- squirrels (competing for bird food) (only on bird feeder)
- magpies and crows (competing for food, bullying smaller birds)
- sparrowhawks (though these are small in number and indicate a 'healthy' food chain)
- cats (none seen by me since starting the work there)
3. Evaluation
Conclusions from above info
- Birds don't generally feel safe out in the open, so as much growth as possible is ideal
- Trees essential, so bear this is mind when designing (don't chop a lot away)
- Many birds will use feeders as well as their normal feeding sites
- Lawns also important for some birds, which from a Permaculture design perspective, are not always that important
4. Ideas
Planting suggestions
from 'Gardens for Birds' and London Wildlife Trust
from 'Gardens for Birds' and London Wildlife Trust
As it is essential for variety of birds to have a range of feeding sites and adequate cover - the more trees and hedges the better, plus ground cover
Native trees and shrubs Bird Cherry (Prunus padus) for fruit and insects Crab apple for fruit and insects Holly fruit for Redwings and Fieldfares Guelder Rose (Viburnum opulus) later berries in September and October Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) nesting and autumn berries for Thrushes and Woodpigeons Hazel cover and insects (though Squirrels get nuts usually) Honeysuckle for nesting and berries Ivy for nesting and berries for Thrush and Robins and Blackcaps Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) berries for Thrushes (these are quite small trees) Wild Rose for nesting and fruit Willow for insects and catkins I have left out trees that like Chalky soil and am sure J's soil isn't chalky but will test (see Implementation November 2013) |
Butterfly plants
For eg, Parsley, Rudbeckia, Birdsfoot Trefoil, Chives, Verbena, Kidney vetch, Oxslip, Lavender, Oregano Hoverfly friendly plants Poached egg plant, plants with yellow flowers Michaelmas daisy Coriander Flowers Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) provide seedheads for Finches Michaelmas daisy has late flowers for Hoverflies and Bees Sunflowers provide seeds for Finches Teasel provides seeds for Goldfinches Thistle for Goldfinches and Linnets (also butterfly food) Non native shrubs Eleagnus x ebbingei to fix nitrogen, olives in Autumn edible for humans too Firethorn (Pyracantha) for berries, protection and nesting (already small plant in) Quince - great hedge plant, fruit too |
Elements of bird garden design
(from 'Gardens for Birds' Aura Garden Guides lent by J)
Really valuable features to include would be:
(from 'Gardens for Birds' Aura Garden Guides lent by J)
Really valuable features to include would be:
- rotting woodpile for insects and decomposers
- meadow patch for pollinators and food for birds
- fruiting trees, both deciduous and evergreen, different fruiting times
- pergola with hanging feeders
- tall trees for insects buds and nesting sites
- dense hedge for nesting
- raised birdbath, cat safe and easy to refill
- pond with marginal plants and a central perch and shallow edge
- mixed borders, for nectar seeds and fruit
- lawn for thrushes
- climbers for nesting and roosting
- next box for sparrow, great tits and blue tits
- feeding station with perches which is mobile to prevent droppings accumulating in one spot, also protected from rain and easy to clear
5. Integration
of previously gathered info, research and ideas
Pulling all the above information together into a design was made easy by using the Gardens for Birds reference book already mentioned, which clearly lists all the elements necessary to provide a safe habitat for birds in a garden.
I used all the elements (see draft 1 below) some of which already exist in the garden.
I used all the elements (see draft 1 below) some of which already exist in the garden.
Design
Possible positioning of all desirable elements of design mentioned above
Draft one is in the appendix and describes the 13 elements I wished to propose for the garden. Draft 2 below goes into more detail about which specific plants go where.
Applying the principles of Work with Nature, Integrate not segregate and Stacking, the design is inspired by 7 layers of Forest Garden. Large mature trees (already in the garden), younger and smaller fruit trees (Crab Apple and Bird cherry, though not strictly shade tolerant, they don't have to be in this garden), Native(ish) hedge, herbaceous plants and flowers, lawn (and ground hugging plants such as prunella), bulbs (instead of roots) and climbers (Honeysuckle).
Applying the principles of Work with Nature, Integrate not segregate and Stacking, the design is inspired by 7 layers of Forest Garden. Large mature trees (already in the garden), younger and smaller fruit trees (Crab Apple and Bird cherry, though not strictly shade tolerant, they don't have to be in this garden), Native(ish) hedge, herbaceous plants and flowers, lawn (and ground hugging plants such as prunella), bulbs (instead of roots) and climbers (Honeysuckle).
After showing J the design we set about agreeing a rough schedule of implementation. (See 6. Implementing the design, overview below). I say rough because her health does not always permit her to do what she planned to do and so we needed to bear that in mind.
Short reflection
I aimed to ensure the elements of this design were multifunctional (Each element is supported by many functions and has multiple functions and Maximise Beneficial relationships)
The presence of birds means good insect (maybe slug) control in the garden - ecological balance
Butterfly and bee friendly plants to attract pollinators is always beneficial as they are fundamental part of larger web of life and are under threat from habitat (Earthcare/Fairshares)
wood pile - food for decomposers, bacteria and fungi, hiding place for larger creatures, moisture retainers
hedges - habitat for birds, small mammals, prevent soil erosion, carbon capture
lawn - somewhere to walk, some birds like to feed there, carbon sink?
pergola - not sure, place for climbers, therefore increases biomass
climbers - food for birds, habitat, clothing fences, pollen
Short reflection
I aimed to ensure the elements of this design were multifunctional (Each element is supported by many functions and has multiple functions and Maximise Beneficial relationships)
The presence of birds means good insect (maybe slug) control in the garden - ecological balance
Butterfly and bee friendly plants to attract pollinators is always beneficial as they are fundamental part of larger web of life and are under threat from habitat (Earthcare/Fairshares)
wood pile - food for decomposers, bacteria and fungi, hiding place for larger creatures, moisture retainers
hedges - habitat for birds, small mammals, prevent soil erosion, carbon capture
lawn - somewhere to walk, some birds like to feed there, carbon sink?
pergola - not sure, place for climbers, therefore increases biomass
climbers - food for birds, habitat, clothing fences, pollen
6. Implementing the design
an overall schedule
For more details on how I implemented (with observations and evaluations) go to Implementation diary
7. Final evaluation and reflection
This design may take another year to fully implement and I have been round the design cycle at least once, so I will carry out the final evaluation and reflection now for the purposes of completing my portfolio.
Have I met the design aims? (as of March 2015)
There were 3 main aims, numbered below:
1) create a bird-friendly garden
It was already fairly bird-friendly due to the existence of holly, brambles, wild rose, ivy and a bird feeder. However once the hedge is established with perennials in front then it'll be even more inviting to feathered friends. I can continue to add layering and cutting from my allotment (such as Japanese Wineberry) to thicken the hedge area.
2) Low budget (see Costings below)
We did go over budget as the original budget was unrealistic - J bought plants that she specificallly knew would be attractive to birds for their fruit and they were fairly mature so more expensive. She also bought soil to start off the new plants which was a good idea as ground at end of her garden quite hard. She could have borrowed garden tools from neighbour but chose to buy some new ones as an investment. The most expensive item has been my labour! (5x 2 hourly visits at the rate of £15 per hour). I could have worked using the Gift Economy but I didn't think of it till 2015.
There are likely to be further costs if a watering system is to be implemented for which materials need to be bought (or found).
For peer evaluation see Appendix.
Have I met the design aims? (as of March 2015)
There were 3 main aims, numbered below:
1) create a bird-friendly garden
It was already fairly bird-friendly due to the existence of holly, brambles, wild rose, ivy and a bird feeder. However once the hedge is established with perennials in front then it'll be even more inviting to feathered friends. I can continue to add layering and cutting from my allotment (such as Japanese Wineberry) to thicken the hedge area.
2) Low budget (see Costings below)
We did go over budget as the original budget was unrealistic - J bought plants that she specificallly knew would be attractive to birds for their fruit and they were fairly mature so more expensive. She also bought soil to start off the new plants which was a good idea as ground at end of her garden quite hard. She could have borrowed garden tools from neighbour but chose to buy some new ones as an investment. The most expensive item has been my labour! (5x 2 hourly visits at the rate of £15 per hour). I could have worked using the Gift Economy but I didn't think of it till 2015.
There are likely to be further costs if a watering system is to be implemented for which materials need to be bought (or found).
For peer evaluation see Appendix.
Costings
Plants
Pyracanthas 5.99 x 2 11.98
Pyracantha 12.99
Crab Apple 18.99
Solidago 5.99
Buddleia 5.99
Lavender 3.99
Verbena bonariensis 5.99
bird freindly seed packets 2.49
Lupins x 2 3.99 x2 7.98 Hardwood cuttings 0.00
teasel (dug up plot 60a) 0.00
saved seeds (plot 60a, clients, St S's) 0.00
Soil
30 L mulitpurpose 5.00 x 2 10.00
Other
Grochar 0.00 (birthday present)
Spade and Fork 16.00 for both
Labour 15 per hour x 10 150.00 (before we agreed on gift payments)
Total Feburary 2015 252.39
Plants
Pyracanthas 5.99 x 2 11.98
Pyracantha 12.99
Crab Apple 18.99
Solidago 5.99
Buddleia 5.99
Lavender 3.99
Verbena bonariensis 5.99
bird freindly seed packets 2.49
Lupins x 2 3.99 x2 7.98 Hardwood cuttings 0.00
teasel (dug up plot 60a) 0.00
saved seeds (plot 60a, clients, St S's) 0.00
Soil
30 L mulitpurpose 5.00 x 2 10.00
Other
Grochar 0.00 (birthday present)
Spade and Fork 16.00 for both
Labour 15 per hour x 10 150.00 (before we agreed on gift payments)
Total Feburary 2015 252.39
3) Easy to maintain
Yes and no! The garden will be low maintenance once the hedges, perennials and self -seeders are established, it is getting them to that stage that needs more input. Watering is still a problem as she has no helper to do it at the moment. I had installed watering pots near the crab apple to help collect water directly to roots but water still needs to be transported from tap on side of house. A fellow apprentice suggested a hose connected to a water butt in her part of the garden to direct water to plants when needed. She could collect rainwater from shed or I could fill butt (very large) once a month so that she has some water stored during dry spells.
I have also evaluated using PMI in order to use a Permaculture tool.
Yes and no! The garden will be low maintenance once the hedges, perennials and self -seeders are established, it is getting them to that stage that needs more input. Watering is still a problem as she has no helper to do it at the moment. I had installed watering pots near the crab apple to help collect water directly to roots but water still needs to be transported from tap on side of house. A fellow apprentice suggested a hose connected to a water butt in her part of the garden to direct water to plants when needed. She could collect rainwater from shed or I could fill butt (very large) once a month so that she has some water stored during dry spells.
I have also evaluated using PMI in order to use a Permaculture tool.
Plus
Good variety of plants, existing and designed in: lesser celandine, chives, nigella, crocus, teasel, bluebells, hedge material, solidago, verbena, Pyrancantha. Lots of freely available plants (surpluses from St Saviour's Edible garden mainly) bulbs, hedge material, cuttings Some elements in garden multifunctional, ie, Honeysuckle will provide shelter for birds, food, and clothe the fence. The parts I haven't implemented can always be implemented at some point in the future, ie, pond or water supply for birds, flowering section of lawn and comfrey plant. Interesting Tidiness is not a issue with this design, though aesthetics are. J and I are of same opinion that beautiful gardens are necessarily neat or controlled. It is lovely to design for a person that wants more wildlife in her garden rather than less! |
Minus
Loss of plants by slugs - lupins for example. This meant financial loss to J. Some elements of design were 'ideal' - but reality is that J cannot afford those elements right now - the seating area, the pergola, the pond Haven't been able to get hold of thistle, though this would be ideal bird food My suggestion to plant pennyroyal, bugle, creeping jenny, self-heal in lawn has not been implemented. We both keep forgetting to go and get it! Perhaps due to the gaps between implementation phases. This has meant that a lot of decisions we made at end of each visit get lost in mists of time though main aims of design still held fast. Distance between my house and Croydon! I found it took an hour to get there which is fine as I could visit socially too however I was limited in bringing large items such as plants, water butt which I could have done if she lived round the corner! |
My reflections on the design process
I've used many Permaculture tools and methods for this design:
I conducted a very thorough client interview with client before any implementation (unusual for me) and so improved my practice as a designer, designing for client's specific needs and wants.
I drew up an accurate base map of the part of the garden J is responsible for within the context of the whole garden, this was useful for overlays also (so I could keep a record of plantings as I implemented) (See Appendix; updated Base Map).
The design is an upscaled overlay of the base map and has various multifunctional elements (see part 4. Ideas) I could have attempted to bring in elements that are edible to humans (and some are) however J does not used the garden for this purpose and would be unlikely to start doing so.
I drew a web of connections Bird Food Web which enabled me and client to see that many birds can feed off 2 or 3 types of food (Song Thrush will eat snails and berries) and some rely on one only (such as Green Woodpeckers who eat insects.)
I could have used DAFOR (Dominant, Abundant, Frequent, Occasional, Rare) for plant inventory, that would have gone into more depth about the existing plants on site. I would definitely use it in future designs. I could also use PASTE instead of plant inventory.
I also reflected on why I wanted to do this design and came up with following benefits of creating a healthy bird garden which are in line with Permaculture theory and practice:
- bird conservation (Earthcare)
- presence of some insects reduce presence of harmful insects such as aphids (Work With Nature/Problem is the Solution/Least effort; Maximum effect)
- biodiversity in the city (where paving over is increasing habitat loss) (use and value diversity)
- attractive (observe and interact/obtain a yield
- interest and pleasure for J who has reduced mobility due to illness (obtain a yield)(Peoplecare)
- I have kept an eye on costings and used surpluses to increase the stock of plants in her garden (Peoplecare and Fairshares)
My progress as a designer
Is this a permaculture design?
J asked me this during client interview as, from what she’d gleaned about Permaculture, it might not be, as there is no food growing involved. I talked about the ethics and said it would definitely meet the Earthcare ethic as its aim was to provide haven for birds and their food web. The same applies to Peoplecare as it would add more interest and pleasure into J’s life. It meets the Fairshares ethic by trying to increase zone 4/zone 5 in the city where the trend is still to pave over our gardens. The impact of the design on environment aims to be positive. I explained zoning to J and said that one of her aims could be to create a bit more zone 5. I concluded at the time of the client interview that this design might be at the ‘edge’ of Permaculture and it would be interesting to know what other people think. (Use the edge and value the marginal)
What I learnt
Doing this design enabled me to learn more about birds' needs and therefore increased my awareness of importance of pockets of zone 5 in cities. I realised I am very fond of zone 5 and would like to ensure future designs all contain an element of this.
I've also enjoyed doing the client interview where the client is a friend. It gave us an opportunity to get to know each other in different roles.
I've been able to apply self regulation and accept feedback. When I realised that the Crab apple might suffer if not enough light I did all I could to increase that by reducing lower branches of neighbour's Sycamore (then used for log pile hidden under Holly tree in North East corner) and thinning island of trees in the centre of the lawn (mainly roses). I took timely action and Produced no waste. However, the implementation did lose a bit of momentum due to time lapses as a result of J's ill health and that fact that I am not local /have other work committments.
Designing for a person with physical limits has enabled me to be more sensitive to Peoplecare issues. There was even more reason for garden to be low maintenance as physical exertion is sometimes not possible for J. The design implementation has had to be flexible, J is not always well enough to keep the appointments, she also has a busy life with other committments. .I have addressed some of these limits by offering to garden on a Gift basis, which hopefully means that financial considerations are less of a barrier to her asking me to come and work there.
I like the way this design is linked to other designs in my portfolio (Gift, St Saviour's, Plot 60a) which shows an increase in my ability to think 'multifunctionally' and produce no waste.
Do differently? (Tweak)
In an ideal world, I would have researched and installed a lightweight watering system before planting and sowing anything as establishing plants need a reliable supply. This is still a possibility however.
I could have scaled down the proposed elements of the design, things I find difficult to implement (pond, pergola) to produce a simpler, more realistic design. At the time I fully intended to research them and learn how to do them. I found I did have time to research but not to implement with all the demands of my other designs, earning and family.
Re: Predators, although no evidence of them causing problems for birds yet, I'd need to design in something that prevented the larger birds lording it over the smaller birds (perhaps density of hedge can do this)
Essential Accreditation criteria met:
2. Actively applying Permaculture for at least 2 years since my PDC. (Site development - transforming bare strip of garden to bird haven)
3. Demonstrating design skills: Client interview, base-mapping, overlays, observation, ethics, principles, own framework, PMI and Action Learning
Question evaluation tools
5. Developing my Permaculture Practice: evaluation of design and reflection on process
2. Actively applying Permaculture for at least 2 years since my PDC. (Site development - transforming bare strip of garden to bird haven)
3. Demonstrating design skills: Client interview, base-mapping, overlays, observation, ethics, principles, own framework, PMI and Action Learning
Question evaluation tools
5. Developing my Permaculture Practice: evaluation of design and reflection on process