Contents |
1. Introduction (background to this design)
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1. Introduction (background to this design)
I was lucky to be given a half plot at One Tree Hill allotments, SE23, in 2004 before I was really aware of Permaculture. I just wanted to grow food and have an outdoor space . (I’d moved into an upstairs flat with my daughter in 2002). I also thought it would be a good opportunity to meet local people.
I didn’t really consider the plot as a Permaculture design until I registered for the Diploma in 2007. I've been designing and implementing incrementally since then, but this write up is a snapshot of what I did from 2012 (with a bit of 2009 to 2011 as background) to 2014.
I go there at least 30 minutes once or twice a week to compost kitchen waste or add garden clippings to the soil/paths, and, once a fortnight for longer periods to tidy, sow, dig, sit, sketch, write, listen to the birds and drink tea.
For designs and pages linked to this design/ two things I did previously, see:
How I built an African Keyhole Bed
and
The Earth Element
Things I tried on soil to get it healthy
I didn’t really consider the plot as a Permaculture design until I registered for the Diploma in 2007. I've been designing and implementing incrementally since then, but this write up is a snapshot of what I did from 2012 (with a bit of 2009 to 2011 as background) to 2014.
I go there at least 30 minutes once or twice a week to compost kitchen waste or add garden clippings to the soil/paths, and, once a fortnight for longer periods to tidy, sow, dig, sit, sketch, write, listen to the birds and drink tea.
For designs and pages linked to this design/ two things I did previously, see:
How I built an African Keyhole Bed
and
The Earth Element
Things I tried on soil to get it healthy
Framework
I used OBREDIMET framework for this design.
2. Observation
The site is half a plot at the very top of One Tree Hill allotments, see pink bit on site map, above, hence the ‘a’
after Plot 60, ( ‘b’ plot is just
below mine). Situated below and at the edge of a canopy
of 30 year old (secondary) woodland. (The top of the allotments border is what used to be
part of Great North Wood, now a Nature Reserve managed by Friends of One Tree
Hill).
My plot is South-East-facing so not shaded until very late afternoon.
Half of my half plot is on a fairly steep slope. The whole site is on the side of a hill and quite a climb to the top (am out of breath by the time I get there!).
My plot is dissected by a wood-chipped path running from South-West to North-East.
The soil is heavy clay, with a fairly recent history of erosion too.
It was originally covered in plantain, couch grass and bramble in Sept 2004 when I first took it on. There were some pink roses in the North East corner which I have kept.
A soil ph test I did shows 6.5 which is odd as it’s clay, could it be due to added manure in that part or oak leaf fall?
It costs £20 per year to rent and I waited around 6 months on the waiting list (now closed in 2014!)
My plot is South-East-facing so not shaded until very late afternoon.
Half of my half plot is on a fairly steep slope. The whole site is on the side of a hill and quite a climb to the top (am out of breath by the time I get there!).
My plot is dissected by a wood-chipped path running from South-West to North-East.
The soil is heavy clay, with a fairly recent history of erosion too.
It was originally covered in plantain, couch grass and bramble in Sept 2004 when I first took it on. There were some pink roses in the North East corner which I have kept.
A soil ph test I did shows 6.5 which is odd as it’s clay, could it be due to added manure in that part or oak leaf fall?
It costs £20 per year to rent and I waited around 6 months on the waiting list (now closed in 2014!)
Client interview
What yields did I want?
I was very ambitious at first and had notions of eating broccoli, celeariac and courgettes (stuff that would normally cost a bit more in the supermarket). Speaking to other plot holders, it seemed possible to supply all my veg needs if I was willing to put in the work. .
I didn’t want the allotment to be an expensive hobby, was important to me to be in nature and in contact with the earth, not spending money on shop soil and gardening paraphernalia.
As I became more pragmatic I compiled some design dreams (see 6. Design below) including: healthy soil, some leeks, productive all year round yields, my outdoor space for fresh air, diversity and robustness of crops, low maintenance with regards to watering, organic, fewer slugs.
I identified these goals as they were
1) important: (healthy soil, robust crops, low maintenance) for success and
2) acheivable: (leeks, organic, outdoor space, beauty) and
3) in line with permaculture principles: (diverse crops and all year round yields - Obtain a Yield and Use and Value diversity).
I was very ambitious at first and had notions of eating broccoli, celeariac and courgettes (stuff that would normally cost a bit more in the supermarket). Speaking to other plot holders, it seemed possible to supply all my veg needs if I was willing to put in the work. .
I didn’t want the allotment to be an expensive hobby, was important to me to be in nature and in contact with the earth, not spending money on shop soil and gardening paraphernalia.
As I became more pragmatic I compiled some design dreams (see 6. Design below) including: healthy soil, some leeks, productive all year round yields, my outdoor space for fresh air, diversity and robustness of crops, low maintenance with regards to watering, organic, fewer slugs.
I identified these goals as they were
1) important: (healthy soil, robust crops, low maintenance) for success and
2) acheivable: (leeks, organic, outdoor space, beauty) and
3) in line with permaculture principles: (diverse crops and all year round yields - Obtain a Yield and Use and Value diversity).
3. Boundaries
- Soil
Dry cracked soil in summer - Lots of watering during droughts (spring and autumn 2012), worms curled up in a ball under the dry soil)
sticky in winter
Most Plants small and weedy
- Position of plot
On top of hill, in sun till 4pm in summer
- Pests
Slugs
Blackfly on beans every year so far, not enough ladybirds to control them
red ants like it there
Birds helping selves to currants and wineberries
Occasional thefts - especially produce - Climate change - Spring 2013 blowing hot then cold (snow in April)
- approximate size: at its widest and longest: 5m x 10.5 m (minus path of 1m x 5m) for base map see below
4. Resources (and discoveries)
in pictures and words
As well as:
- Clay soil full of nutrients , occasional manure supplies
- 2 Dalek style compost bins, 2 Waterbutts - one from allotment society and one found
- Rainwater collection installed by friend flowing into butt
- Sunshine, hardly any shade
- Experienced growers around me on other plots
- Communal wheelbarrows,
- Endless woodchip supply
- garden waste from clients’ gardens for mulch and path
- Rosemary sage and thyme doing well
- Fenugreek seed (accidently ordered about 2 kilos!)
- Glass pane (found) for cold frame,
- Birdsong
- Elephant garlic does well there overwinter.
- Wineberry is tip layering
- Hazel cuttings successful so have 3 more plants to give away
- Soil can be scooped out of keyhole bed’s middle and used for planting,
- Buckwheat broadcast on surface germinates very well, good for hoverflies and bees and soil structure
- Josterberry cuttings from client, Grape cuttings from neighbour
5. Evaluation (intial)
Strengths
It’s a beautiful site with great views and woodland behind. Wildlife is very close by. It’s my outdoor space and my little patch of land to play with. Rains in May 2012 – didn’t waterlog plot as it did in other areas of allotment where slopes are Opportunities The opportunity of this plot is to both learn about to growing food and also about soil. (See Earth Element design) To grow something unusual, not standard supermarket fare, ie Quince, Cape gooseberry, (maybe eliminate thefts this way?) To develop the site into a low maintenance, robust, diversely yielding plot. |
Weaknesses
The fact that the nutrients in the soil are not available to plants because of poor soil structure is a minus. The site isn't secure from a bit of theft - produce and tools. Needs a lot of watering in Summer, partly due to extended dry periods. Challenges Although views are lovely, it’s literally an uphill struggle to get heavy bulky stuff up there, so, little and often. To get more high-maintenance plants to grow there – Concurbits for example! (see Earth Element design ) Being patient - is a slow process getting soil into shape for growing abundantly and a variety of crops. (Slow and small solutions) To limit myself to growing what the soil supports at the moment! |
I began to link the things I wanted (see design dreams below) with possible ways to implement, given the limitations mentioned in 3. Evaluation, 4. Boundaries and 5. Resources above.
6. Design
pre-design dreams and ideas for implementing
Design dreams:
This is what I wanted that I thought may be achievable; -productive all year round yield/some leeks to eat! -healthy soil (which led to design 3 Earth Element) -diversity and robustness to cope with climate change -my space in fresh air/beauty (already acheived) -low maintenance re: watering |
Possible ways to implement:
-mixture of perennials and self-seeders/protect fruit from birds -keep mulching and forking in (again see Earth Element design for why) -intercrop fast and slow growers/perennials -grow plants I like to look at -create shade/drought tolerant plants/aerate with sticks/ground cover |
in the actual design (see photos below) I decided to :
- Move most of the fruit up the top beds, easier to net if all together and provide diverse yields at various times of year (Least effort, maximum effect) (the fruit beds also house some annuals : wild rocket and garlic plus calendula)
- try some grapes, they grow well on other people’s plots! (are drought tolerant and good yield) (Least effort maximum effect)
- Divide sage and replant – copes well with dry and as possible slug deterrant and create a useful shade plant (Use and value renewable resources and services)
- More herbs - they are great and do survive on this plot and provide a yield and some shade too (Obtain a yield)
- Keep defining edges with perennials to create some shade as bed very dry in summer : Hazel,Hawthorn, Quince, Willow (I like to look at these plants) (Work with nature)
- Have climbers: Hops, Nasturtium to eat and grow up a trellis and shade the African Keyhole Bed in summer a bit (Each element has multiple functions)
Design
This is the design I came up with in 2012, an overlay of base map.
A closer look at the design
I've colour coded the elements on above paper and used the same colours in the Elements and functions diagram below.
Brown: logs and dead hedges - the allotment had alot of logs donated by tree surgeon (see 4. Resources) so I made use of them to create little terraces and define beds and African Keyhole bed. (produce no waste, use and value renewables)
Green: green manure - if I have nothing going on I want to keep soil covered to prevent drying out and to add nutrients too. Green manure beds to be rotated yearly or biennially. (least effort : maximum effect, work with nature)
Blue: herbs - to obtain a yield and work with nature, I planned to plant a variety of herbs as I had already observed they could cope with clay soil (Lavender, rosemary, sage, oregano, comfrey, borage, lemon balm, especially) If they dominate, I can use as chop and drop mulch
Orange: woodchipped paths - lots of woodchip available from local tree surgeon (when chip rots, I can add to soil as it has good structure) (Use and value renewables)
Red: fruit bushes - they struggle at first then take off so I have raspberry, tayberry, currants, gooseberry and wineberry. I can grow annuals in the spaces between perennials. They need less watering than vegetables and mulching helps keep soil moist. (Use and value diversity, work with nature)
Purple: hedge material and perennials - the hedge is to provide a bit of shade so it's placed on the South West edge. It also looks nice and may provide some nuts from Hazel if I'm lucky! (Work with nature)
Yellow: climbers - again they provide shade as placed on South East and they make use of vertical space supported by trellis made of client's bamboo
Olive: composting areas - I need to compost as much as I can to provide organic matter to incorporate (see Earth Element design)(Produce no waste, use and value renewables)
Other elements:
Swale: running from under the fruit bed to the African Keyhole bed in case of flash floods and to direct the water where it's needed. (Catch and store energy)
Shed: a shared shed for tool storage and rainwater collection (see above principle)
Water butts: rain water run off is collected from shed roof into a small water butt. It can overflow into larger butt if necessary. (ditto)
Existing Oak tree canopy: provides leaf fall and habitat for many species, a resource really
Brown: logs and dead hedges - the allotment had alot of logs donated by tree surgeon (see 4. Resources) so I made use of them to create little terraces and define beds and African Keyhole bed. (produce no waste, use and value renewables)
Green: green manure - if I have nothing going on I want to keep soil covered to prevent drying out and to add nutrients too. Green manure beds to be rotated yearly or biennially. (least effort : maximum effect, work with nature)
Blue: herbs - to obtain a yield and work with nature, I planned to plant a variety of herbs as I had already observed they could cope with clay soil (Lavender, rosemary, sage, oregano, comfrey, borage, lemon balm, especially) If they dominate, I can use as chop and drop mulch
Orange: woodchipped paths - lots of woodchip available from local tree surgeon (when chip rots, I can add to soil as it has good structure) (Use and value renewables)
Red: fruit bushes - they struggle at first then take off so I have raspberry, tayberry, currants, gooseberry and wineberry. I can grow annuals in the spaces between perennials. They need less watering than vegetables and mulching helps keep soil moist. (Use and value diversity, work with nature)
Purple: hedge material and perennials - the hedge is to provide a bit of shade so it's placed on the South West edge. It also looks nice and may provide some nuts from Hazel if I'm lucky! (Work with nature)
Yellow: climbers - again they provide shade as placed on South East and they make use of vertical space supported by trellis made of client's bamboo
Olive: composting areas - I need to compost as much as I can to provide organic matter to incorporate (see Earth Element design)(Produce no waste, use and value renewables)
Other elements:
Swale: running from under the fruit bed to the African Keyhole bed in case of flash floods and to direct the water where it's needed. (Catch and store energy)
Shed: a shared shed for tool storage and rainwater collection (see above principle)
Water butts: rain water run off is collected from shed roof into a small water butt. It can overflow into larger butt if necessary. (ditto)
Existing Oak tree canopy: provides leaf fall and habitat for many species, a resource really
Elements and Functions
I looked at my design in my detail and checked that the elements had more than one function. Most of them have 3 or 4, for example, the green manure beds anchor the soil and prevent more erosion, fix nitrogen, provide bee forage, provide chop and drop mulch and prevent evaporation of moisture from bare soil. Here is an elements and functions diagram using Vue. Also links into principles and ethics.
7. Implementation and Maintenance
As I 'd already started implementing incrementally (at each visit), and this documentation is a snapshot of site development, I 've decided to merge the implementation and maintenance. The following calendar shows the yearly tasks I need to to do implement and maintain the design.
The A3 illustration (hence awkward to scan in ) shows yearly tasks by colour or pattern.
Inner circle - weekly composting of kitchen waste (Produce no waste)
Inner circle crosses - weekly mulching with pet bedding and garden waste from clients. (Produce no waste)
From Feb to November - planting sowing and broadcasting (crops or green manure)
From October to March - digging over, forking in organiic matter or green manure
From March to October - weeding paths and stray brambles and couch grass
From April till October/November - watering
May - net the fruit (Produce no waste)
December to Feb - cardboard mulch or trenches layered with cardboard and soil
June and October - empty the swales and use soil for beds (Produce no waste and use and value renewables)
Inner circle - weekly composting of kitchen waste (Produce no waste)
Inner circle crosses - weekly mulching with pet bedding and garden waste from clients. (Produce no waste)
From Feb to November - planting sowing and broadcasting (crops or green manure)
From October to March - digging over, forking in organiic matter or green manure
From March to October - weeding paths and stray brambles and couch grass
From April till October/November - watering
May - net the fruit (Produce no waste)
December to Feb - cardboard mulch or trenches layered with cardboard and soil
June and October - empty the swales and use soil for beds (Produce no waste and use and value renewables)
8a) Evaluation
I have been using the four Action Learning Questions regularly in my journal and on this blog (see Evaluations and Observations) and notes so it feels appropriate to apply them evaluate the effectiveness of this design.
1. What went well?
|
2. What was challenging?
3. Hopes and dreams
4. Next achievable steps
|
8b) Reflections
Permaculture tools, theory and practice
Framework
I used OBREDIMET I like the way the first stage of gathering info is divided into four sections, it seems a bit more precise and neater than SADIMs 'Survey' and 'Analysis' stages and the resources stage helps me focus on what I already have (which in this design was considerable) (Applying the principle of Obtain a yield). Using resources stage of OBREDIMET helps me to apply abundance thinking. ('7 Ways to think Differently', Looby McNamara). As I say below in My progression as a designer, I applied framework belatedly having started implementing in 2009 with the African Keyhole Bed and this makes documenting much more difficult.
I could have used CEAP or SADIM but the latter I have employed considerably throughout the portfolio. CEAP seems too loose for this type of land based design (better for social designs maybe?) (I have used CEAP in Pavillion Triangle in Supplementary Evidence)
Design Tools
I used a lot of observation see Observations and Evaluations ObsOb. As I visit the allomtment regularly (it's in my Zone 2 but I'd love to make it Zone 1), I get an opportunity to sketch, take notes and lots of photos. As I have said in the Action Learning Pathway, this is a skill I have developed since practising Permaculture, and this design in particular, and it can always be improved.
I didn't do a soil analysis because I had carried this out for The Earth Element design.
Client interview (see 5. Design Dreams). I could gone through the questions covered in pages 81 to 84 of Aranya's Permaculture Design guide. However I think I have covered the important bits in the above write up. The design dreams as client interview hellped me identify the various yields I wanted from the site (outdoor space to relax in, all year round produce) and some very specific ones, such as leeks!
Base mapping: I carried out the base mapping as an exercise for the portfolio to show that I can measure a site. However this was before I took a short course in garden design in January 2014 (see Chronology) so didn't know that scale is conventionally expressed in 1:50 or 1: 100 mm. The scale I used her is 5cm: 1m which turns out to be 1:20 in mm (so much larger than I needed to do) It is on A2 paper and had to be scanned in in 4 parts.
I could have used shadow mapping but am not too worried about shade as the site is open and sunny, until around 4pm /5pm in summer (upper plot). The lower half stays sunny until sunset.
Overlay I used photocopies of the base map to work up a design, that way I could have several goes before settling on final design, so it was a very useful tool placing the elements.
I could have used an A frame to map the contours of the slopy part of plot. However the site is quite small (5 m wide at most) and I am familiar with site through regular observation. When installing the swale (prior to this design), I just used my spatial awareness - as site isn't very large swale easy to correct. (This hasn't been necessary).
Elements and functions
I enjoyed playing with VUE (an open source software tool) to produce this and think it produces clear illustrations, as long as there are n't too many elements. (Though that is a limitation of using weebly to display portfolio as screeen is only so large). I think the elements and functions tool has been useful to check the elements of this design are all of value and that they can be synthesised into an overall cohesive design.
Evaluations
I used SWOC for the post survey evaluation as I've not used it much before and thought it valuable to evaluate in a slightly different way, using more specific categories. However I find the Weakness and the Challenges sections hard to differentiate between. (The orginal word was 'Threat' which isn't very solutions thinking /Permaculture and probably why it was modified to Challenges). I've used the categories to help me design solutions by applying principles Use and Value diversity to theft and Work with nature to problem of dry soil insummer.
I also identified a weakness that became a design opportunity (Earth Element).
I used the Action Learning Questions in 8. Evaluation of whole design. I could have used them for the Reflection part of evaluation stage as they are worded in a more subjective way but am happy with result I have in any case.
Framework
I used OBREDIMET I like the way the first stage of gathering info is divided into four sections, it seems a bit more precise and neater than SADIMs 'Survey' and 'Analysis' stages and the resources stage helps me focus on what I already have (which in this design was considerable) (Applying the principle of Obtain a yield). Using resources stage of OBREDIMET helps me to apply abundance thinking. ('7 Ways to think Differently', Looby McNamara). As I say below in My progression as a designer, I applied framework belatedly having started implementing in 2009 with the African Keyhole Bed and this makes documenting much more difficult.
I could have used CEAP or SADIM but the latter I have employed considerably throughout the portfolio. CEAP seems too loose for this type of land based design (better for social designs maybe?) (I have used CEAP in Pavillion Triangle in Supplementary Evidence)
Design Tools
I used a lot of observation see Observations and Evaluations ObsOb. As I visit the allomtment regularly (it's in my Zone 2 but I'd love to make it Zone 1), I get an opportunity to sketch, take notes and lots of photos. As I have said in the Action Learning Pathway, this is a skill I have developed since practising Permaculture, and this design in particular, and it can always be improved.
I didn't do a soil analysis because I had carried this out for The Earth Element design.
Client interview (see 5. Design Dreams). I could gone through the questions covered in pages 81 to 84 of Aranya's Permaculture Design guide. However I think I have covered the important bits in the above write up. The design dreams as client interview hellped me identify the various yields I wanted from the site (outdoor space to relax in, all year round produce) and some very specific ones, such as leeks!
Base mapping: I carried out the base mapping as an exercise for the portfolio to show that I can measure a site. However this was before I took a short course in garden design in January 2014 (see Chronology) so didn't know that scale is conventionally expressed in 1:50 or 1: 100 mm. The scale I used her is 5cm: 1m which turns out to be 1:20 in mm (so much larger than I needed to do) It is on A2 paper and had to be scanned in in 4 parts.
I could have used shadow mapping but am not too worried about shade as the site is open and sunny, until around 4pm /5pm in summer (upper plot). The lower half stays sunny until sunset.
Overlay I used photocopies of the base map to work up a design, that way I could have several goes before settling on final design, so it was a very useful tool placing the elements.
I could have used an A frame to map the contours of the slopy part of plot. However the site is quite small (5 m wide at most) and I am familiar with site through regular observation. When installing the swale (prior to this design), I just used my spatial awareness - as site isn't very large swale easy to correct. (This hasn't been necessary).
Elements and functions
I enjoyed playing with VUE (an open source software tool) to produce this and think it produces clear illustrations, as long as there are n't too many elements. (Though that is a limitation of using weebly to display portfolio as screeen is only so large). I think the elements and functions tool has been useful to check the elements of this design are all of value and that they can be synthesised into an overall cohesive design.
Evaluations
I used SWOC for the post survey evaluation as I've not used it much before and thought it valuable to evaluate in a slightly different way, using more specific categories. However I find the Weakness and the Challenges sections hard to differentiate between. (The orginal word was 'Threat' which isn't very solutions thinking /Permaculture and probably why it was modified to Challenges). I've used the categories to help me design solutions by applying principles Use and Value diversity to theft and Work with nature to problem of dry soil insummer.
I also identified a weakness that became a design opportunity (Earth Element).
I used the Action Learning Questions in 8. Evaluation of whole design. I could have used them for the Reflection part of evaluation stage as they are worded in a more subjective way but am happy with result I have in any case.
Permaculture theory and practice
Earthcare - I 've not knowingly used non-renewables or polluting materials for this design. The use of perennials and covered soil increases carbon capture and the habitats of soil organisms and surrounding wildllife are respected and protected as far as possible. (I still need to do a bit of digging to get soil up to scratch (see THe Earth Element ) but will abandon that as soon as I can 'Obtain a Yield'.
Peoplecare - one of the aims of design was to create an outdoor space that I like to be in. I do have some plants that I consider beautiful to look at: tulips, wiggly willow (Salix contorta), Salvia, globe artichoke, roses and some that smell nice such as Rosemary and Sweet Box. I have plenty of logs to sit on and a shed to store heavy tools and materials.
Fairshares - I am cultivating half a plot, which is enough for me. The other half, Plot 60b is being cultivated (rather well!) by somebody else. Allomtent spaces are in demand in London so I dont' want to take on any more than need. Surpluses are rare but am sharing Wineberries and, last year, Cape gooseberry with birds and squirrels.
Principles used in this design:
Obtain a yield - using perennials, (fruit, herbs, globe artichoke )
Working with nature (reliable broad beans/green man). Low maintenance crops
Least effort; maximum effect growing perennials that require little maintenance
Use and Value diversity - using polyculture, growing annuals between the perennials and unusual edibles (Jerusalem artichokes, Globe artichoke, hops)
Stacking - I have aimed for effective use of space with the trellis for peas and grapes (eventually) not just hops!
Small and slow solutions- coping with poor soil by persistence and patience on soil and applying organic matter in a little and often fashion
Produce no waste - This is an important principle for this design - using chop and drop mulch with abundant comfrey and Jerusalem artichokes as well as using client garden waste and pet bedding to mulch or compost or fill a trench. This is mentioned in Earth Element design
Use and value renewables - logs, woodchip, organic matter, chop and drop mulch.
My progression as a designer
This is one of my earlier designs that began in 2009 really with the installation of the African Keyhole bed. I was finding my feet as a designer and implementing before surveying in some areas. I didn't start documenting consistently till 2012 (and am revising in 2015) so it 's been a bit clunky fitting the framework on and remembering why I did things.
However doing this design has meant:
I 've learnt to base map a site 'to scale' even though the scale I originally used was not conventionally expressed (5cm:1m). (It is actually 1:20, which is conventional and quite large). As I 've said in 9. Tweak, I didn't need such a huge base map and it was difficult to scan into this portfolio.
I now have more knowledge of which plants will tolerate heavy clay soils and which plants need more care. (I noticed the larger seeds tend to do Ok whereas finer ones struggle).
I 've learnt that good to have fruit bushes on a slope as the roots can stabilise the soil.
I can create a garden quite cheaply using cuttings and divisions and seeds saved from other gardens. (This is also an application of Fairshares ethic as I then donate my surpluses to friends and clients, see J's bird garden).
I have developed my observation skills by regularly taking notes and photos of the site (see Observations and Evaluations).
I have developed a site that was previously a rather unsuccessful growing area into a Permaculture design that has potential to yield more and more each year. (See Accreditation Criteria met at foot of page)
Earthcare - I 've not knowingly used non-renewables or polluting materials for this design. The use of perennials and covered soil increases carbon capture and the habitats of soil organisms and surrounding wildllife are respected and protected as far as possible. (I still need to do a bit of digging to get soil up to scratch (see THe Earth Element ) but will abandon that as soon as I can 'Obtain a Yield'.
Peoplecare - one of the aims of design was to create an outdoor space that I like to be in. I do have some plants that I consider beautiful to look at: tulips, wiggly willow (Salix contorta), Salvia, globe artichoke, roses and some that smell nice such as Rosemary and Sweet Box. I have plenty of logs to sit on and a shed to store heavy tools and materials.
Fairshares - I am cultivating half a plot, which is enough for me. The other half, Plot 60b is being cultivated (rather well!) by somebody else. Allomtent spaces are in demand in London so I dont' want to take on any more than need. Surpluses are rare but am sharing Wineberries and, last year, Cape gooseberry with birds and squirrels.
Principles used in this design:
Obtain a yield - using perennials, (fruit, herbs, globe artichoke )
Working with nature (reliable broad beans/green man). Low maintenance crops
Least effort; maximum effect growing perennials that require little maintenance
Use and Value diversity - using polyculture, growing annuals between the perennials and unusual edibles (Jerusalem artichokes, Globe artichoke, hops)
Stacking - I have aimed for effective use of space with the trellis for peas and grapes (eventually) not just hops!
Small and slow solutions- coping with poor soil by persistence and patience on soil and applying organic matter in a little and often fashion
Produce no waste - This is an important principle for this design - using chop and drop mulch with abundant comfrey and Jerusalem artichokes as well as using client garden waste and pet bedding to mulch or compost or fill a trench. This is mentioned in Earth Element design
Use and value renewables - logs, woodchip, organic matter, chop and drop mulch.
My progression as a designer
This is one of my earlier designs that began in 2009 really with the installation of the African Keyhole bed. I was finding my feet as a designer and implementing before surveying in some areas. I didn't start documenting consistently till 2012 (and am revising in 2015) so it 's been a bit clunky fitting the framework on and remembering why I did things.
However doing this design has meant:
I 've learnt to base map a site 'to scale' even though the scale I originally used was not conventionally expressed (5cm:1m). (It is actually 1:20, which is conventional and quite large). As I 've said in 9. Tweak, I didn't need such a huge base map and it was difficult to scan into this portfolio.
I now have more knowledge of which plants will tolerate heavy clay soils and which plants need more care. (I noticed the larger seeds tend to do Ok whereas finer ones struggle).
I 've learnt that good to have fruit bushes on a slope as the roots can stabilise the soil.
I can create a garden quite cheaply using cuttings and divisions and seeds saved from other gardens. (This is also an application of Fairshares ethic as I then donate my surpluses to friends and clients, see J's bird garden).
I have developed my observation skills by regularly taking notes and photos of the site (see Observations and Evaluations).
I have developed a site that was previously a rather unsuccessful growing area into a Permaculture design that has potential to yield more and more each year. (See Accreditation Criteria met at foot of page)
9. Tweak
What would I do differently?
1. As I said in the Earth Element design, I would have started breaking up the clay soil sooner.
2. For a proper yield, I would net the crops I do have: peas and Japanese wineberries and in 2014 Cape Gooseberry.
3. I would have used A3 paper to do the base map, it is large enough, and used scale of 1:50 (easier as have a ruler that works it out )
Addressing the 'What could be better?' column of Action Learning questions in Evaluation.
1. Dry spells and diversity and robustness: Keep working on soil, digging in organic matter, burying organic matter, green manure so it retains moisture better and needs less watering see also Next Achievable Steps in 8a) Evaluation
2. Yield: Keep growing the things that work while trying out things that haven't previously see 7.
3. Leeks: Grow leeks from seedlings and transplant there in shop soil
4. All year round yield: Try kale and brussel sprouts started at home and netted from birds, so that I have a winter crop see also 6.
5. Slugs: Remove some of the logs where slugs are hiding (as Charles Dowding recommends in his videos) and have no borders round one of the main beds to see if improvement. Also add edge to the beds, so possibly modify the African Keyhold bed to a double apple core shape that links the corner plots too.
6. I like the idea of a Forage Garden, I might try that in future. A more Fairshares approach (though maybe not obtaining a yield I can eat!)
7. High maintenance plants: Don't grow them! I could have a Random Garden. That would involve broadcasting whatever seeds I have saved or bought and seeing what germinates, as well as allowing volunteer edibles to grow there. (I would get to find out more about which plants are lower maintenance). (Apply self regulation and accept feedback and work with nature)
8. Start using strawberries as ground cover on upper slopes for edible yield (can interplant with onions)
9. Carry on enjoying the fresh air and views. (Observe and interact)
1. As I said in the Earth Element design, I would have started breaking up the clay soil sooner.
2. For a proper yield, I would net the crops I do have: peas and Japanese wineberries and in 2014 Cape Gooseberry.
3. I would have used A3 paper to do the base map, it is large enough, and used scale of 1:50 (easier as have a ruler that works it out )
Addressing the 'What could be better?' column of Action Learning questions in Evaluation.
1. Dry spells and diversity and robustness: Keep working on soil, digging in organic matter, burying organic matter, green manure so it retains moisture better and needs less watering see also Next Achievable Steps in 8a) Evaluation
2. Yield: Keep growing the things that work while trying out things that haven't previously see 7.
3. Leeks: Grow leeks from seedlings and transplant there in shop soil
4. All year round yield: Try kale and brussel sprouts started at home and netted from birds, so that I have a winter crop see also 6.
5. Slugs: Remove some of the logs where slugs are hiding (as Charles Dowding recommends in his videos) and have no borders round one of the main beds to see if improvement. Also add edge to the beds, so possibly modify the African Keyhold bed to a double apple core shape that links the corner plots too.
6. I like the idea of a Forage Garden, I might try that in future. A more Fairshares approach (though maybe not obtaining a yield I can eat!)
7. High maintenance plants: Don't grow them! I could have a Random Garden. That would involve broadcasting whatever seeds I have saved or bought and seeing what germinates, as well as allowing volunteer edibles to grow there. (I would get to find out more about which plants are lower maintenance). (Apply self regulation and accept feedback and work with nature)
8. Start using strawberries as ground cover on upper slopes for edible yield (can interplant with onions)
9. Carry on enjoying the fresh air and views. (Observe and interact)
Accreditation criteria met:
2. Actively applying Permaculture for at least 2 years since my PDC. (Rearch Institute Category: Site development)
3. Demonstrating design skills: OBREDIMEt, observation, base map, overlay, analysis of elements and functions
4. Applying Permaculture in my own life - connecting to growing cycle, learning to meet food and leisure needs in low impact way
5. Developing Permaculture practice by reflecting and evaluation my own designs.
2. Actively applying Permaculture for at least 2 years since my PDC. (Rearch Institute Category: Site development)
3. Demonstrating design skills: OBREDIMEt, observation, base map, overlay, analysis of elements and functions
4. Applying Permaculture in my own life - connecting to growing cycle, learning to meet food and leisure needs in low impact way
5. Developing Permaculture practice by reflecting and evaluation my own designs.